Evaluation Framework

15 Dermatological Safety Standards

Every rule in our engine is backed by scientific citations from the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), and clinical research.

RULE 01 risk standard

Pregnancy & Lactation

Screens for teratogenic, high-systemic absorption agents (retinoids, hydroquinone) and high-dose chemical filters avoided during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

Cited Blacklist Sample (9 Triggers)

retinol HIGH

Topical vitamin A derivative. While systemic absorption is low, clinical guidelines (ACOG/Teratology consensus) advise avoiding all topical retinoids during pregnancy due to systemic retinoid embryopathy risks. — Bozzo P, Chua-Gocheco A, Einarson A. Safety of skin care products during pregnancy. Can Fam Physician. 2011;57(6):665-667.

retinyl palmitate HIGH

Retinoid ester enzymatically hydrolyzed to retinol in the epidermis; contraindicated during gestation. — Bozzo P, Chua-Gocheco A, Einarson A. Safety of skin care products during pregnancy. Can Fam Physician. 2011;57(6):665-667.

retinal HIGH

Direct precursor to retinoic acid; avoided during pregnancy by teratological consensus. — Panchaud A, Csajka C, Merlob P, et al. Pregnancy outcome following exposure to topical retinoids: a multicenter prospective study. J Clin Pharmacol. 2012;52(12):1844-1851.

adapalene HIGH

Synthetic topical retinoid. FDA prescribing information instructs immediate discontinuation upon pregnancy due to potential teratogenicity risk. — FDA Center for Drug Evaluation and Research. Adapalene Gel 0.1%/0.3% Labeling (NDA 021753, Ref ID: 3138379). FDA PLLR Review.

RULE 02 risk standard

Fungal Acne (Malassezia)

Screens for lipids, fatty acids (C11-C24), esters, and polysorbates that feed Malassezia yeast folliculitis.

Cited Blacklist Sample (15 Triggers)

polysorbate 20 HIGH

Polyoxyethylene sorbitan ester directly hydrolyzed by Malassezia lipases into free fatty acids that support yeast proliferation. — Mayser P, Grimmig D, Krämer HJ. Different utilization of neutral lipids by Malassezia furfur and Malassezia sympodialis. Med Mycol. 1998;36(6):395-402.

polysorbate 40 HIGH

Sorbitan monopalmitate ethoxylate hydrolyzed as a lipid nutrient source by lipophilic Malassezia yeasts. — Mayser P, Grimmig D, Krämer HJ. Different utilization of neutral lipids by Malassezia furfur and Malassezia sympodialis. Med Mycol. 1998;36(6):395-402.

polysorbate 60 HIGH

Monostearate ester providing C18 saturated fatty acid substrates supporting fungal growth. — Mayser P, Grimmig D, Krämer HJ. Different utilization of neutral lipids by Malassezia furfur and Malassezia sympodialis. Med Mycol. 1998;36(6):395-402.

polysorbate 80 HIGH

Monooleate ester delivering unsaturated oleic acid (C18:1), a primary fuel source for Malassezia species. — Mayser P, Grimmig D, Krämer HJ. Different utilization of neutral lipids by Malassezia furfur and Malassezia sympodialis. Med Mycol. 1998;36(6):395-402.

RULE 03 risk standard

Non-Comedogenic

Screens for ingredients with published rabbit ear / human microcomedone ratings of 4 or 5 on the 0-5 comedogenicity scale.

Cited Blacklist Sample (10 Triggers)

isopropyl isostearate HIGH

Comedogenicity rating 4-5 on the standard Fulton rabbit ear / human microcomedone assay; potent follicular impaction agent. — Fulton JE Jr. Comedogenicity and irritancy of commonly used ingredients in skin care products. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1989;40:321-333.

isopropyl myristate HIGH

Comedogenicity rating 5; induces rapid hyperkeratosis and follicular retention in acne-prone skin. — Fulton JE Jr. Comedogenicity and irritancy of commonly used ingredients in skin care products. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1989;40:321-333.

isopropyl palmitate HIGH

Comedogenicity rating 4; high pore-clogging potential. — Fulton JE Jr. Comedogenicity and irritancy of commonly used ingredients in skin care products. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1989;40:321-333.

myristyl myristate HIGH

Comedogenicity rating 5; dense occlusive wax ester causing microcomedone formation. — Fulton JE Jr. Comedogenicity and irritancy of commonly used ingredients in skin care products. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1989;40:321-333.

RULE 04 free standard

Silicone-Free

Screens for occlusive dimethicones, siloxanes, and synthetic silicone polymers.

Cited Blacklist Sample (8 Triggers)

dimethicone HIGH

Linear polydimethylsiloxane polymer forming a breathable hydrophobic surface barrier film. — CIR Panel. Safety Assessment of Dimethicone and Related Siloxane Polymers. Int J Toxicol. 2003;22(Suppl 2):11-35.

cyclomethicone HIGH

Volatile cyclic organosilicon mixture evaluated for bioaccumulation and persistent environmental profile. — SCCS. Opinion on Cyclomethicone (Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), SCCS/1241/10.

cyclopentasiloxane HIGH

Cyclic siloxane fluid regulated under EU REACH Annex XVII due to bioaccumulation in aquatic environments. — SCCS. Opinion on Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) in cosmetic products, SCCS/1549/15.

cyclohexasiloxane HIGH

Cyclic siloxane D6 compound monitored under environmental persistence guidelines. — European Chemicals Agency (ECHA). SVHC Identification Candidate List for D6 Siloxane (CAS 540-97-6).

RULE 05 free standard

Fragrance-Free

Screens for synthetic perfumes (parfum) and European Union regulated contact allergen aromatic compounds.

Cited Blacklist Sample (9 Triggers)

fragrance HIGH

Undisclosed synthetic perfume mixture composed of potential sensitizing aroma chemicals. — European Commission. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, Annex III.

parfum HIGH

Official European INCI designation for complex proprietary fragrance formulations. — European Commission. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, Annex III.

linalool HIGH

Terpene pre-hapten that oxidizes upon atmospheric exposure to form potent contact-sensitizing hydroperoxides. — SCCS. Opinion on Fragrance allergens in cosmetic products, SCCS/1459/11 (2012).

limonene HIGH

Citrus terpene that oxidizes on skin into limonene hydroperoxides with high clinical patch test positivity. — SCCS. Opinion on Fragrance allergens in cosmetic products, SCCS/1459/11 (2012).

RULE 06 free standard

Paraben-Free

Screens for alkyl ester preservatives derived from para-hydroxybenzoic acid.

Cited Blacklist Sample (6 Triggers)

methylparaben HIGH

Short-chain methyl ester of 4-hydroxybenzoic acid. — Andersen FA. Final amended report on the safety assessment of Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Isopropylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben, and Benzylparaben. Int J Toxicol. 2008;27(Suppl 4):1-82.

propylparaben HIGH

Propyl ester preservative subject to EU concentration limits (maximum 0.14% single ester). — SCCS. Opinion on Parabens (Updated request on Butylparaben and Propylparaben), SCCS/1514/13 (2014).

butylparaben HIGH

Butyl ester preservative restricted due to higher binding affinity for estrogen receptors compared to short-chain parabens. — SCCS. Opinion on Parabens, SCCS/1514/13 (2014).

ethylparaben HIGH

Ethyl ester antimicrobial preservative. — Andersen FA. Final amended report on the safety assessment of Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, etc. Int J Toxicol. 2008;27(Suppl 4):1-82.

RULE 07 free standard

Sulfate-Free

Screens for harsh alkyl sulfate surfactants that strip epidermal lipophilic barriers.

Cited Blacklist Sample (5 Triggers)

sodium lauryl sulfate HIGH

Anionic alkyl sulfate detergent; benchmark model skin irritant known to dissolve intercellular lipid bilayers and provoke transepidermal water loss. — Löffler H, Effendy I. Skin susceptibility of atopic individuals. Contact Dermatitis. 1999;40(5):239-242.

sodium laureth sulfate HIGH

Ethoxylated sulfate surfactant; milder than SLS but capable of stripping lipid barriers when unbuffered in leave-on or sensitive applications. — Robinson VC, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, et al. Final report of the amended safety assessment of sodium laureth sulfate and related salts of sulfated ethoxylated alcohols. Int J Toxicol. 2010;29(4 Suppl):151S-161S.

ammonium lauryl sulfate HIGH

Strong anionic surfactant with substantial cutaneous irritancy potential. — CIR Panel. Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate. J Am Coll Toxicol. 1983;2(7):127-181.

ammonium laureth sulfate HIGH

Ethoxylated ammonium alkyl ether sulfate cleansing agent. — Robinson VC, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, et al. Int J Toxicol. 2010;29(4 Suppl):151S-161S.

RULE 08 free standard

Alcohol-Free

Screens for simple low-molecular-weight volatile drying alcohols (does not flag beneficial emollient fatty alcohols).

Cited Blacklist Sample (7 Triggers)

alcohol denat. HIGH

Volatile drying alcohol that strips natural stratum corneum lipids and accelerates cutaneous evaporation. — CIR Panel. Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Alcohol Denat., Including SD Alcohol 40, etc. Int J Toxicol. 2008;27(Suppl 1):1-43.

alcohol denat HIGH

Variant punctuation INCI for denatured ethanol. — CIR Panel. Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Alcohol Denat. Int J Toxicol. 2008;27(Suppl 1):1-43.

sd alcohol 40 HIGH

Specially denatured alcohol grade 40. — CIR Panel. Int J Toxicol. 2008;27(Suppl 1):1-43.

sd alcohol 40-b HIGH

Common ethanol grade denatured with t-butyl alcohol and denatonium benzoate. — CIR Panel. Int J Toxicol. 2008;27(Suppl 1):1-43.

RULE 09 free standard

Vegan & Cruelty-Free

Screens for animal-derived tissues, secretions, insect extracts, and sheep wool lanolin.

Cited Blacklist Sample (9 Triggers)

snail secretion filtrate HIGH

Direct animal secretion collected from gastropod land snails (Helix aspersa). — The Vegan Society Trademark Standards Criteria (Animal By-Product Guidance).

lanolin HIGH

Sebaceous wax harvested from the sheared wool of domestic sheep (Ovis aries). — CIR Panel. Safety Assessment of Lanolin and Lanolin Derivatives. J Am Coll Toxicol. 1982;1(4):1-35. & Vegan Society Criteria.

cera alba HIGH

Purified and bleached beeswax synthesized by honey bees (Apis mellifera). — European Pharmacopoeia (Ph. Eur.) Monograph 0069 (White Beeswax) & Vegan Society Standards.

beeswax HIGH

Natural wax secreted by the abdominal glands of worker bees. — The Vegan Society Trademark Standards Criteria.

RULE 10 free standard

Reef-Safe Sunscreen

Screens for chemical UV filters banned in Hawaii (Act 104) and the US Virgin Islands due to coral bleaching and marine ecotoxicity.

Cited Blacklist Sample (5 Triggers)

oxybenzone HIGH

Chemical UV filter banned in Hawaii (Act 104); causes endocrine disruption, DNA damage, and deformation in coral larvae. — Downs CA, Kramarsky-Winter E, Segal R, et al. Toxicopathological Effects of the Sunscreen UV Filter, Oxybenzone, on Coral Planulae. Arch Environ Contam Toxicol. 2016;70(2):265-288.

octinoxate HIGH

Banned sunscreen agent that induces bleaching in stony corals and damages symbiont photosynthetic efficiency. — State of Hawaii Legislature. Act 104 (SB 2571): Sunscreens; Oxybenzone; Octinoxate; Environmental Protection. 2018.

octocrylene HIGH

Banned in the US Virgin Islands (Act 8185); degrades into benzophenone and accumulates in marine wildlife tissues. — Downs CA, DiNardo JC, Stien D, et al. Benzophenone Accumulates over Time from the Degradation of Octocrylene in Commercial Sunscreen Products. Chem Res Toxicol. 2021;34(4):1046-1054.

homosalate MODERATE

Under active environmental review for bioaccumulation in aquatic food chains and endocrine-active properties. — SCCS. Opinion on Homosalate, SCCS/1638/21 (2021).

RULE 11 risk standard

Rosacea & Eczema-Safe

Screens for stinging acids, aggressive retinoids, synthetic dyes, and known vascular flush triggers.

Cited Blacklist Sample (9 Triggers)

glycolic acid HIGH

Small molecular alpha-hydroxy acid that penetrates impaired stratum corneum rapidly, causing intense burning, erythema, and neurovascular dilation. — Wilkin J, Dahl M, Detmar M, et al. Standard classification of rosacea: Report of the National Rosacea Society Expert Committee on the Classification and Staging of Rosacea. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2002;46(4):584-587.

lactic acid MODERATE

AHA exfoliant with moderate sting potential on compromised atopic barriers. — Wilkin J, Dahl M, Detmar M, et al. Standard classification of rosacea: Report of the National Rosacea Society Expert Committee on the Classification and Staging of Rosacea. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2002;46(4):584-587.

alcohol denat. HIGH

Volatile drying alcohol inducing immediate neurovascular flushing, stinging, and lipid depletion. — Wilkin J, Dahl M, Detmar M, et al. Standard classification of rosacea: Report of the National Rosacea Society Expert Committee on the Classification and Staging of Rosacea. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2002;46(4):584-587.

menthol HIGH

Sensory counter-irritant that activates TRPM8 cold-sensing receptors, provoking reactive vasodilatory flush. — Wilkin J, Dahl M, Detmar M, et al. Standard classification of rosacea: Report of the National Rosacea Society Expert Committee on the Classification and Staging of Rosacea. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2002;46(4):584-587.

RULE 12 risk standard

Malassezia Yeast Free

Screens for yeast-nutrition ingredients linked to pityrosporum folliculitis and seborrheic dermatitis.

Cited Blacklist Sample (5 Triggers)

polysorbate 20 HIGH

Tween ester delivering fatty acid lipids directly consumed by Malassezia yeasts. — Mayser P, Grimmig D, Krämer HJ. Different utilization of neutral lipids by Malassezia furfur and Malassezia sympodialis. Med Mycol. 1998;36(6):395-402.

polysorbate 80 HIGH

Oleate ester serving as primary lipid nutrition for lipophilic yeast species. — Mayser P, Grimmig D, Krämer HJ. Different utilization of neutral lipids by Malassezia furfur and Malassezia sympodialis. Med Mycol. 1998;36(6):395-402.

olive oil HIGH

High free oleic acid ratio damages stratum corneum barrier integrity and promotes Malassezia colonization. — Danby SG, AlEnezi T, Sultan A, et al. Effect of olive and sunflower seed oil on the adult skin barrier: implications for neonatal skin care. Pediatr Dermatol. 2013;30(1):42-50.

coconut oil HIGH

Triglyceride matrix broken down by yeast lipases into free fatty acids that support pityrosporum proliferation. — Verallo-Rowell VM, Dillague KM, Syah-Tjundawan BS. Novel antibacterial and emollient effects of coconut and virgin olive oils in adult atopic dermatitis. Dermatitis. 2008;19(6):308-315. & Mayser P, 1998.

RULE 13 free standard

Nut-Allergy Safe

Screens for tree nut and peanut botanical seed oils, flours, and nut shell abrasive powders.

Cited Blacklist Sample (9 Triggers)

prunus amygdalus dulcis oil HIGH

Sweet almond oil expressed from tree nuts; poses contact urticaria and anaphylaxis cross-reactivity risks in sensitized individuals. — CIR Panel. Safety Assessment of Plant-Derived Fatty Acid Oils. Int J Toxicol. 2017.

sweet almond oil HIGH

Common botanical name for Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil. — CIR Panel. Safety Assessment of Plant-Derived Fatty Acid Oils. Int J Toxicol. 2017.

macadamia ternifolia seed oil HIGH

Macadamia tree nut botanical oil. — CIR Panel. Safety Assessment of Plant-Derived Fatty Acid Oils. Int J Toxicol. 2017.

macadamia integrifolia seed oil HIGH

Macadamia seed lipid extract. — CIR Panel. Safety Assessment of Plant-Derived Fatty Acid Oils. Int J Toxicol. 2017.

RULE 14 free standard

Gluten-Free

Screens for wheat, barley, rye, and oat protein fractions relevant to celiac disease and dermatitis herpetiformis.

Cited Blacklist Sample (6 Triggers)

triticum vulgare germ oil HIGH

Wheat germ botanical lipid containing potential trace gluten peptides. — Tatham AS, Shewry PR. Allergens to wheat and related cereals. Clin Exp Allergy. 2008;38(11):1712-1726.

triticum vulgare flour lipids HIGH

Wheat flour lipid fraction with cross-contamination risk for celiac patients upon accidental ingestion or mucosal transfer. — Tatham AS, Shewry PR. Allergens to wheat and related cereals. Clin Exp Allergy. 2008;38(11):1712-1726.

hydrolyzed wheat protein HIGH

Hydrolyzed wheat storage protein; established trigger of immediate IgE-mediated contact urticaria. — Niinimäki A, Niinimäki M, Mäkinen-Kiljunen S, Hannuksela M. Contact urticaria from protein hydrolysates in hair conditioners. Contact Dermatitis. 1998;39(1):24-26.

hordeum vulgare seed extract HIGH

Barley seed botanical extract containing hordein gluten proteins. — Thompson T, Grace T. Gluten in cosmetics: is there a reason for concern? J Acad Nutr Diet. 2012;112(9):1316-1323.

RULE 15 free standard

Phthalate-Free

Screens for dialkyl or alkyl aryl esters of 1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid plasticizers and fragrance fixatives.

Cited Blacklist Sample (4 Triggers)

diethyl phthalate HIGH

Synthetic fragrance fixative under continuous toxicological scrutiny for potential endocrine disruption. — SCCS. Opinion on Phthalates (Diethyl phthalate), SCCS/1183/08 (2008).

dimethyl phthalate HIGH

Dialkyl phthalate solvent and plasticizer. — CIR Panel. Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dibutyl Phthalate, Dimethyl Phthalate, and Diethyl Phthalate. J Am Coll Toxicol. 1985;4(3):267-303.

dibutyl phthalate HIGH

Category 1B reproductive toxicant banned from cosmetic formulations in the European Union. — European Parliament and Council. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, Annex II (Substances prohibited in cosmetic products: Entry 675).

di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate HIGH

DEHP plasticizer; banned reproductive toxicant in cosmetics. — European Parliament and Council. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, Annex II (Substances prohibited in cosmetic products: Entry 677).